The Pokhara Times

I've been in Nepal a month now and this is only my second blog, which just goes to show what an idle layabout I have become. I am presently holed up in Pokhara Lakeside, centre of the paragliding world - although at $100US/day I am not learning to become a 'pilot'. Instead I am spending my days either writing up my former exploits for Bike magazine (and have just written on the Raid race for Bike magazine, India). That or doing the best part of bugger-all.

Evenings generally consist of eating and drinking, pursuits which are neither going to get me any fitter, nor any richer. To be honest, I'm a little bored of Pokhara now, despite views of the Annapurna Range and easy living. But I'm waiting on P to send up a replacement front rim for the bike, as there's a crack in mine. This is not surprising, considering the bashing the wheel has taken and my inattention to spoke tension. I have just been sent some fresh Metzeler tyres, but dare not pull the front rubber off until I have the new rim.

A little while back, I took a ride down to Chitwan National Park in the company of a local bike tour operator and some customers. A good four days were spent riding and walking in the park, or its 'buffer zone'. I'd hoped to see some rhino, but wasn't lucky in that department. Did see a big mugger crocodile though - luckily he saw me first, or I would have trodden on him. Also saw a fabulous yellow-banded krait (a snake) and plenty of hog deer among the beautiful wetlands.

Like Pokhara, Bardia and most other places I've seen in Nepal, Chitwan is something of a 'tourist trap', with all the trimmings. As a white, I'm instantly identifiable as a walking cash machine and prices are hiked to suit - in the case of internet use by up to 750% in tourist hotspots. Obviously being an old tightwad with transport I've found out the local prices of many things and pay accordingly, but many shop-keepers, etc, will start off asking for twice what the goods are worth.

But the prices aren't the worst aspect of Nepal's reliance on tourism. It's the them-and-us attitude, that's found in all such places in Asia and beyond, that gets most tiresome. If a Nepali approaches to start a 'conversation' it's a pretty good bet they're after something. It may be an hour down the line, or a couple of days - but it's coming. There are, of course, a few exceptions, but they're not easy to find. Guess it's my fault for be unimaginative and hanging out in well frequented tourist haunts.

Making 'hanging out' in Nepal a little more interesting is the ongoing political situation. The Maoists and the interim government have just (two weeks back) signed a peace treaty, about which folks seem to be pretty chuffed after 11 years of insurgency. There are still plenty of huge issues to be resolved, but Nepalis are optimistic (perhaps also a little naive) about the prospect of living in a democracy.

Meanwhile in the hills, the Maoist cadres are still abducting children into their ranks, or bribing them into arms. Roadblocks still routinely 'tax' people and Mafia-like behaviour would appear to be rife.

But put these facts to people and they are still upbeat: 'What do you expect? We've stopped shooting each other. It's a start.'

Right - it's been a little while between writing this and putting it up. The wheel I needed is here and I now pan to go back down to Chitwan and thence to Kathmandu, where I've the highly irritating business of getting a new Indian visa.